Bright Red, Light Yellow, True Green, Pure White, Pastel Pink, & Strawberry Blond

I’m not sure if you’ve noticed, but I sort of dye my hair. A lot.

The love affair began when I was 13, and has continued, uninterrupted, ever since. Seriously.

It started off eggplant, a dark auburny aubergine, inspired by the blossoming Grunge movement and, admittedly, My So-Called Life. Hey, what can I say? It was junior high. That show totally rocked.

By high school I was ‘that freaky blue-haired girl’, and I was a dye-hard. I went through a brief phase post-graduation, where I decided that I was an ‘adult’ now, and thus I had to ’start acting like one’ (ha!). I got a job at a posh little boutique, started wearing mainstream clothing, and dyed my hair a normal color. Within 6 weeks I was miserable, alienated, and pretty much an alcoholic. A few months later I quite that job, quit the afternoon cocktails, and shaved my head down to the first guard. That was the only lesson I ever needed in the importance of self-expression.

My aesthetic is a huge part of who I am and it’s played an integral roll in my life. I make no excuses or apologies about that. At university I excelled within a highly competitive field. I was a model academic in every way – except for my appearance. It definitely worked in my favor though, and endeared me to my professors once they realized I could back it all up with intellect. Before my lab flew out to present our work at an international congress in Glasgow, my advisor asked me if I was going to tame down my [then magenta] hair. “Um, . . . no?” I cautiously replied. His answer: “Good.”

So suffice to say, my hair dye is here to stay. But how natural is it? And how healthy is it? I’ve received a lot of email regarding the topic, and so I wanted to address a few of the issues. I’ve got some good news, and some bad news.

Burgundy, Platinum, Cobalt, & Magenta

Is there such thing as a natural hair dye?
Short answer: sort of. There’s henna, but true henna only comes in one color (reddish-orange) and is rather hard to find. Most ‘hennas’ are sold as compound hennas, containing additional dyes, metallic salts, and other [toxic or nontoxic] chemicals. Other plant-based dyes, like indigo (to get blue-black) or woad (to get a dark brown) are available. But again, these are difficult to find in pure form.

If you’re hoping for candy apple red, neon orange, submarine yellow, granny smith green, turquoise blue, grape jelly purple, princess pink, or bright white, you’re simply out of luck. Same goes for bleach/lighteners. Sorry! Any compound product claiming to be ‘all-natural’ or ‘organic’, whether it be alternative or traditional colors, is blowing smoke. Don’t buy into it!


Have you ever used henna?
No – not yet! It’s next on my list though. Henna doesn’t react well with bleach or other dyes, so I have to grow out my roots and then shave my head. I’m looking forward to the experiments with henna. Stay tuned for a full report!


Is there any vegan hair dye?
Unfortunately, it’s pretty grim. Like the vast majority of cosmetics, most hair dyes (and/or their ingredients) are tested on animals. Luckily, the entire line of Manic Panic’s classic cream formula dyes, as well as their flashlightning bleach kits, are 100% animal and cruelty free. Woo-hoo!


How bad is the boxed stuff at the drug store?
Pretty bad. It’s ammonia-based and noxious (you can tell it’s trouble just by the smell). It’s probably not gonna kill you, but it’s certainly nothing you want to apply to your precious self.


What about the stuff my hairdresser uses?
Sorry, but it’s about the same. Ammonia-based and full of noxious chemicals. Plus, most hair dressers don’t know the first thing about real-world coloring (in my experience, and no offense to the good ones out there!). Stay true to the subculture; DO IT YOURSELF.


So, what do *you* use, then?
In my almost 15 years experience I’ve used everything imaginable, from the drugstore box dyes to Kool-Aid (yes the drink), from the revolving ‘trendy’ alt dyes like Fudge, Punky Colors, and Special Effects, to lemon juice + sunshine, from professional salon jobs to backyard experiments with Jello (yes the dessert).

These older-and-wiser days, I stick exclusively to Manic Panic. Most importantly, they’re vegan. But they also provide an excellent range of colors and they super-condition your hair. Plus, they’re the original old school alt dye, and I grew up on the stuff!

Manic Panic is a non-toxic, non-noxious, vegan vegetable-based semi-permanent product. They are NOT all natural, they are NOT organic, and they are NOT saving the world from environmental destruction. No illusions, okay?

I wrote to the company requesting further information, but I never heard back from them. So I decided to do a little sleuthing of my own, and began researching each and every ingredient. My goal was to accumulate an honest, unbiased assessment of the risk associated with use. I’ll be presenting these findings here, coming soon.


So, what’s your real hair color?
Ha! Wouldn’t you like to know!?

No seriously, I don’t actually know. Before my first dye job I was a towhead, like totally white-blond. But that was pre-puberty and I’m certain it’s darkened up since then. But to what, who knows? . . . and maybe we never will . . .

I recently reported on dangerous chemicals in cosmetics, and the information I uncovered in writing that article really affected me. If my friends thought I was a little eco-freak before, they need to prepare for a whole new level of glorious, fabulous ever-so-exciting neo-hippieness.

I was appalled, absolutely astounded by the questionable additives found in almost all commercial self-care products. I resolved, then, to purge each product as it ran out (no waste), and to derive my own amazing alternative.

A few days later, my deodorant was running low, and I came up with this solution.

OH MY GOD you guys, this stuff works SO GOOD. I can’t believe it! But I finished my recipe right at the start of a massive heat wave, and both my husband and I wore it through the entire week of 100º+, with nary a stinky or unsightly pit stain. How could something so simple work so well? I LOVE BAKING SODA!  *swoon*

Sayward’s Homemade Deodorant Recipe

1/3 cup Corn Starch

1/3 cup Baking Soda

10 drops of Antibacterial Essential Oil (tea tree, lavender, or eucalyptus)

10 drops of Antifungal Essential Oil (tea tree, peppermint, sandalwood, or eucalyptus)

2 tablespoons Vitamin E Oil

3 tablespoons Coconut Oil

Mix everything up in a bowl until it forms a thick paste. Transfer to your storage container and then allow 24 hours to ’set up’. I used an old deodorant container ’cause it looks so cute and I thought it was neat, but I don’t recommend it. In the future I’ll be using a shallow, wide-mouthed jar, applying the deo with my fingertips.





In my own concoction, I used 10 drops of Lavender oil, which is an antibacterial, antiviral, antiseptic, natural deodorant, and soother of skin-irritation (like razor burn!). I also used 10 drops of Eucalyptus oil, which is an antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiseptic, and increases circulation. In Damian’s version I just used the Eucalyptus oil, all 20 drops.

I can’t wait to hear how this works out for you guys!

Okay, I don’t mean to alarm you, but it’s time to take a closer look at our grooming habits. Fact: you will find unhealthy additives in almost every personal care product you own, from lead in your lipstick to mercury in your mascara (1). And menfolk, you don’t get off that easy. There’s toxins in that toothpaste and carcinogens in the conditioner, too. And so, although this may seem overwhelmingly scary, we’ve got to face the facts.

On average, we interact with twelve personal care products each day (2), and that means twelve daily chances for exposure. If you’re like me and slather on the organic, all natural hippie stuff, you may be surprised to learn: Apparently, lotion isn’t food! That means in the US, there’s no federal standard for labeling of these terms (2). So ‘organic’, ‘natural’, and ‘botanical’ mean virtually nothing here.

So what’s the worry? Well, in a recent study conducted by the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a small group of teenaged females were tested for cosmetics-related chemicals. Every single girl, aged 14-19, tested positive for toxins in their blood and/or urine. There were 16 separate compounds found, each of which is linked to its own slew of health problems. Two parabens (methylparaben and propylparaben) were present in every teen that was tested. (2)

What the . . . ???

Ingredients are classified by the Cosmetic Ingredients Review (CIR), which is supported by the FDA (3). There are four official categories: ‘safe’, ‘safe with qualifications’, ‘insufficient data’, and ‘unsafe’. But the CIR appears reckless in their labeling, as phthalates –suspected carcinogens – have been deemed as ‘safe’. This designation was granted even though 1) the affects of phthalates on males have been understudied and inconclusive, 2) it is not understood what quantity of phthalates are absorbed through the skin, and 3) there is no comprehensive analysis that includes the range of products containing phthalates, so there is no way to measure potential exposure (3).

On top of that, ‘odors’ (chemical compounds) are considered ‘trade secrets’, so ingredients won’t be listed. There is no approval required for ‘color additives’ either, and these could include any endless number of synthetic creations (3). It’s best to purchase products that actively advertise themselves as free of these sorts of additives. Here’s a mini-list of what you’ll want to avoid:

Sayward’s Quick List for Personal Care – What To Avoid

antibacterial/antimicrobial products – It’s pretty common knowledge (and many studies corroborate (1)) that washing with warm water and standard soap is just as effective as antibacterials. Overuse is breeding resistant bugs, including very serious strains like E. coli and Salmonella. Triclosan is a common ingredient (see below). (1)

triclosan – An antibacterial, antifungal, and preservative agent. It has been linked to cancer and shown to affect both thyroid function and testosterone activity. Triclosan is detectable in breast milk. Luckily, it must be clearly labeled on the package. (1)

parabens – These are hormones used as preservatives. They are linked to cancer, especially breast cancer, and have a mild estrogenic affect. Parabens have been shown to interfere with sperm formation. Look for ‘methyl-‘, ‘ethyl-‘, ‘propyl-‘, ‘butyl-‘, and ‘isobutyl-‘ -paraben. (1)

phthalates – These hormones, often added for fragrance, are also linked to cancer. They mimic estrogen in the body, influencing hormone-related cancers, PMS, premature menopause and infertility. There is also a suspected relation to obesity (1). Often, phthalates are just listed as ‘fragrance’ (or related terms), so look for products that specifically say ‘phthalate free’.

sodium laureth sulfate – A detergent and foaming agent that’s classified as a ‘moderate to severe’ eye irritant. This contains small amounts of 1,4-dioxane (see below) and may combine with other chemicals to form nitrosamines, very powerful carcinogens.(4)

sodium lauryl sulfate – Another detergent and strong surfactant, this is implicated in a whole slew of health issues, including skin irritation, induced canker sores, and hair loss. Also can combine with other chemicals to form carcinogenic nitrosamines.(5)

1,4-dioxane – A known carcinogen, nephrotoxin (liver and kidney), and hepatotoxin (blood) (4). Look for ingredients containing ‘PEG’, ‘-xynol’, ‘ceteareth’, ‘oleth’, and other ethoxylated ‘eth’ chemicals (1).

Animal Testing – This practice is the industry standard, but is not required by law. This unnecessary process has been repeatedly shown to fail at predicting human-chemical response. Remember that a product may say ‘no animal testing’ or show the crossed out bunny logo (bottom left), but this only refers to the finished product. It does NOT mean that individual ingredients weren’t independently tested. Always look for the jumping bunny logo (bottom right), which means totally, entirely, 100% cruelty free.

This is just the beginning, but it’s a really good place to start. Avoid these additives and you’ll be avoiding a lot of toxic exposure. For advanced reading and more information, check out the following links:

The Dirty Thirty: 30 chemicals linked to cancer.

Caring Consumer: for a list of companies that DO NOT test on animals, and a list of companies that DO test on animals

Skin Deep: an online database that matches the ingredients in over 25,000 products against 50 toxicity databases, resulting in the most comprehensive safety information on personal care products.

In the great grand effort to ‘green’ your life, there are two major areas that matter above all others: cleaning and cosmetics. These are the primary eco-offenders, the personal products that do the most damage. And so, conversely, these are lifestyle changes that pack the biggest punch!

I don’t know about you guys, but I am a lotion fiend. I apply a hefty helping, head to tippy toes, at least once a day. So it’s important to me – for my body and for the environment – that the goo I choose to use is up to par.

And so I’ve spent the past many months in testing – rotating lotions, recording notes. I’ve squeezed and squirted and sniffed and slathered all sorts of salves, and now I present to you: my findings!


The Great Lotion Face-Off, 2009

I am not sponsored by or affiliated with any of these companies; I paid for products in full.

Products were selected via these criteria:

1. Must be widely available, ‘common’ nationwide in the US (sorry foreign readers!) and online (at least there’s that!)
2. Must be widely attainable – under $12 for a standard sized bottle
3. Must contain only vegan ingredients* and must not be tested on animals
4. Must be ‘natural’ and free of harsh/harmful chemicals

*one exception, noted

Avalon Organic Botanicals Lavender Hand and Body Lotion

~$10.99 / 12 oz

Available at: Trader Joes, various natural stores, and online

Notes:

• no parabens
• no petroleum-based ingredients
• no sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate
• no synthetic fragrance or color
• carries the leaping bunny logo

My Experience: This lotion has a delightful lavender fragrance, but it is strong. The consistency is pretty thick as well, more like a hand cream than a body lotion. Considering its high price tag and strong fragrance, I think this would be best for a guest bathroom hand lotion, or something else along those lines.

Trader Joe’s Moisturizing Cream: Extra Dry Formula

~$5.99 / 16 oz

Available at: Trader Joes

Notes:

• none

My Experience: This stuff’s so thick, it sits on my skin like putty. I don’t feel like I even really absorb much, but it sure is a pain in the butt getting dressed after I put it on. I had to hang out for a while, air drying, which is fine on slow-start days but if I’m in a hurry it’s just no good. There’s nothing more uncomfortable than the feeling of clothing clinging to sticky arms and legs. Amiright?

Also, it says it’s unscented, but really it has that ‘lotion’ smell. My 0.02¢ : If it’s gonna stink anyway, you might as well add a bit of pleasing aroma.

I would not buy this again.

Desert Essence Fragrance Free Organics Body Lotion

~$8.99 / 8 oz

Available at: Natural markets everywhere, and online

Notes:

• organic
• wheat and gluten free
• no parabens or pthalates
• no petrolium-based ingredients
• no sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate, or other ‘harsh preservatives’
• no artificial colors

My Experience: This lotion was totally ‘meh’. It wasn’t too thick and it wasn’t too thin. It wasn’t too oily or too watery. It wasn’t bad . . . but it wasn’t very memorable either. And again, ‘unscented’ should mean unscented, not ‘icky lotion smell’.

I would probably buy this again . . . if I had to.

Burt’s Bees Radiance Body lotion*

*this product is not vegan, but it is ‘beegan’. It contains no animal products aside from bee byproducts, in this case royal jelly and beeswax. I am vegan and endorse using vegan products exclusively.

~$9.00 / 6 oz

Available at: Many major drugstores, natural markets, and online

Notes:

• paraben and pthalate free
• ‘99.21% natural’
• package from 22% post-consumer recycled plastic

My Experience: Oh, Burt’s Bees. The ubiquitous, ever present ‘natural’ option in your local drug store. And good for them – they’ve broken down a lot of barriers, made natural products accessible to a lot more people. It’s just a shame they sold to Clorox™, and that most of their products aren’t vegan (I guess, to be fair, it’s in the name). Anyways, this was some of my ‘pre-gan’ lotion, but I figured I’d include it here. I know many of my readers are not vegan, and many live in less eco-friendly regions. I do appreciate BBs’ influence in the marketplace – they’re everywhere!

But alas, this lotion sort of blows. It’s very thin, almost runny, and it goes on really greasy. Like, really really greasy. Like oil-slick-limbs, I-need-to-pat-myself-dry-before-dressing sort of greasy. One cool thing though – it contains natural mica, a glittery mineral, that makes your skin sparkle in the sunlight. So fabulous! A+ feature in a B- product.

ShiKai Cucumber Melon Hand and Body Lotion

~$7.99 / 8 oz

Available at: Natural markets everywhere, and online

Notes:

• many organic ingredients
• pharmaceutical grade ingredients whenever possible (as opposed to cosmetic grade)
• all natural fragrances
• carries the leaping bunny logo

My Experience: I really dig this company, and use their platinum shampoo to keep my hair so fiercely white. Unfortunately, the lotion didn’t quite measure up. It wasn’t horrible, but it wasn’t great either. The odor was a bit too saccharine for my liking, and the texture of the balm was rather oily. It was thin and left a bit of a greasy film on my skin. Nothing as bad as that dang Burt’s Bees, but still not so fun. It’s too bad – the price sure is nice.

J/Â/S/Ö/N. Cocoa Butter Lotion & 84% Aloe Vera Lotion

~$6.99 / 8 oz

Available at: Natural markets everywhere, and online

Notes:

• paraben free
• many organic ingredients
• packaged in recycled, recyclable plastic
• carries the leaping bunny logo

My Experience: I liked both of these, but I found the cocoa butter to be more pleasing than the aloe vera. If you haven’t noticed yet, I’m a stickler for texture – not too thick or thin, not too gummy or greasy. The cocoa butter is just right, and the aloe vera is almost there, just a bit on the oily side. My biggest complaint were the odors, neither of which was very inviting. I love me some cocoa butter (it was my old standby – that giant cheap drugstore tub – before I went ‘natural’), and I love the smell of the stuff. The J/Â/S/Ö/N variety has a faint cocoa butter under-scent, but it’s obscured by a harsh, unnatural top note. Not enough to turn me off forever, but definitely enough to knock it out of first place. But bonus – this is some of the cheapest natural lotion out there!

Nature’s Gate Papaya Moisturizing Lotion & Hemp Moisturizing Lotion

~$9.99 / 18 oz

Available at: Natural markets everywhere, and online

Notes:

• paraben and pthalate free
• colorant free
• packaged in recyclable containers

My Experience: Ohmygod the papaya smells SO good. This is hands down my favorite lotion. It’s the *perfect* consistency, smooth and soft and quickly absorbed by the skin. No hanging around trying to air dry, and no desire to wipe off excess greasies. It’s awesome, and it smells so good I want to eat it. On top of that, it’s one of the cheapest options! My co-op sells it in bulk (score!), but even if you source it the standard way, it’s the same price as the others for roughly twice as much lotion. We have a winner!!!

Did you know that most tattoos aren’t actually vegan? It doesn’t occur to many non-vegans, but animal products impact almost every aspect of our lives – even something as marginal and subcultured as our beloved body art! And it’s true – almost all tattoo ink contains animal ingredients. Crazy, right?!

I’m lucky enough to live in Portland, where we have a loud, proud and active vegan community. So active in fact, that they’ve been organizing the Let Live NW Animal Rights Conference, which will take place here in Portland beginning June 26th. And gearing up for the event, which is an enormous undertaking and quite costly I’m sure, the community has been fundraising and benefit sale-ing like crazy. Go team!

This Saturday was a big one down at the Vegan Mini Mall, with Sweet Pea, Food Fight!, and Herbivore all promising to donate a portion of their sales to the conference. And over at Scapegoat Tattoo, they were offering an incredible special: $30 Tattoos for the Let Live Foundation!

How could I resist? A vegan tattoo with a vegan theme by a vegan artist, all to benefit a vegan awareness event? Yes please! 

So this is my new tattoo, small and sweet and totally, totally perfect. 

I think it suits me well, don’t you?

Massively special thanks to Brian at Scapegoat Tattoo for the awesome job and impromptu sit-in. If any readers are ever in P-town, you’ve gotta look these guys up. They’re the best!