It’s no great secret that I love to color my hair. I’ve written about my many adventures with various hair dyes, and how I came to settle on my current product of choice, Manic Panic. I have no illusions about the ‘natural’-ness of my obsession, but it’s a huge part of who I am and not something I’ll soon give up. So I found my compromise in Manic Panic – it’s vegan, non-toxic, and veggie based. And that was good enough for me.
That is, until I got pregnant. And suddenly I was much more interested in keeping things completely natural (no way was I going to stop dying my hair all together, the horror!) It seemed the perfect time to play with henna, that strange plant powder I’d always eyed but never tried. And so I began experimenting.
‘Henna’ refers to the ground leaves of the plant Lawsonia inermis. These leaves contain the lawsone molecule, which is responsible for imparting that classic dark red dye. To be clear: there is only one color of henna. Anything claiming to be ‘black henna’, ‘brown henna’, ‘blonde henna’, etc, is a compound containing more than the actual plant. Be wary!
In order for the dye to be effective, the lawsone must be liberated. The leaves are purchased dried and ground, and then mixed with acid to coax out the pigment. Common acids are lemon juice, tea, or vinegar. The wet mix is then set aside overnight (6+ hours) while the lawsone renders.
Henna paste after mixing with lemon juice and refrigerating overnight.
Looks like just the kind of thing you’d want to rub into your head, right? Let me tell you, the first time I tried it I was pretty skeptical. It smells funky! And I was sure it was going to turn my hair some horrible shade of green. Just look at that stuff!
But I slopped it on and rubbed it in. They say to let it sit for an hour or so, but I left it for over five (I always do with hair dye). It smelled like earth and dried in crusty brown clumps. My skepticism continued.
This is what my hair looked like prior to the treatment, faded reddish with dirty blonde roots (the shame!):
And after many many hours of musty odored and mud clumpy head, I rinsed it out – certain that it hadn’t done a thing. But I was wrong!
It’s pretty, no? It’s definitely red! And I gotta say, I’m impressed!
So I’m a henna convert now. I used it all throughout my pregnancy (I find that lemon juice acts as a better acid than, say, vinegar). It has great lasting power and barely fades; you need to fix your roots before you ever need a color boost. And of course the best part – it’s completely natural, just a single ingredient!
We even used it to decorate my belly at my baby ’sprinkle’! (henna dyes skin as well, lasting 1-3 weeks depending on the quality)
That said, I gotta be honest . . . I lasted about 7 weeks postpartum before going back to the old stuff. What can I say, I’m a sucker for bright colors!
So what about you guys? Have you ever henna-ed? What do you think?
I did it! An all-natural, all-vegan, simple DIY styling product. No more harsh chemicals!
So adding to our arsenal of deodorant, toothpaste, and shampoo/conditioner, we can now tame our fly-aways and fashion our mohawks in an ethical and eco-friendly manner. Trés faboo, non?
There’s 3 levels of ‘hold’ here:
Level 1, Smoothing Serum
“You want your hair to stay soft and silky, but dry air and static cling are seriously cramping your style.”
No problem! Just apply a small dollop of pure Vitamin E Oil to the center of your palm. Rub your hands together, and then run both palms over your hair, starting at the roots and moving down. A little goes a long way, and don’t use too much or it’ll end up looking oily. For split or dry ends, apply a bit more E directly to the tips.
Level 2, Light Hold
“You’re looking to keep that ponytail in place or set those bangs, despite the blustery wind waiting for you outside.”
For a little bit of action, Vitamin E isn’t enough. You’ll need to get your hands on some pure (99%) Aloe Vera Gelly. Apply it straight, just like you would with any store bought hair product. It’ll offer a gentle hold that won’t look gummy or gunked-up.
Level 3, Hard Helmet
“You like it spikey, pomped, or hawked. You require some serious hold in order to achieve your aesthetic of choice, perfect for the active lifestyle of an activist like you! If only it weren’t made from beeswax or gelatin . . .”
Never fear, my dears – Seaweed is here! The Bonzai Hair Hold is made from Aloe Vera Gel and Japanese Agar Agar. Derived from seaweed, agar is common in foods like jelly desserts, and is also the culture medium used in most bio labs (which is where I first encountered it). It is sold in thin sheets or flakes and is available at health food stores, ethnic markets, or online. Don’t be alarmed by the initial investment – a little goes a looooong way, and a bag will last you for years.
For a ‘normal hold’ hair gel, use the Agar Agar at the concentration listed on the package. For an even tougher product (perhaps to take on your liberty spikes?), you can mix up a batch at 150% or 200% concentration.
Ingredients:
1/2 cup Agar Agar (concentration of choice)
1/4 cup Aloe Vera Gelly
10 (+/-) drops Essential Oil of choice (for aroma only)
Instructions:
Prepare 1/2 cup of Agar Agar as instructed on the package, usually by simmering and stirring. When all the agar flakes are dissolved, remove from heat and whisk in the Aloe Vera and Essential Oil. Transfer the solution to a container of your choice and refrigerate, at least 6 hours or overnight.
Once the agar is set, you’re good to go! Store the in bathroom as normal.
This stuff is awesome, I’ve been using it to set my mess for about a week, with absolutely no complaints. I love it, and I’m so glad to share it with you!
BONZAI!!!
This month’s Mission was to go ‘no-poo’. There was a lot of interest in the Mission, but that interest came coupled with all sorts of questions. Well of course it did! Inquisitive minds are intelligent minds, and my readers are the curious-est!
So I’ve written up a little faq on the no-poo hair care system, an expanded addendum to accompany this Mission. I hope it helps to clear up the confusion!
What is the point of no-poo?
No-poo is a method of natural hair maintenance, including cleaning and healing, to be continued indefinitely. No-poo replaces conventional shampoo and conditioner, allowing your hair to self-regulate.
How does it work?
Baking soda and vinegar, of course! (would you expect anything else from me?) The goal is to ‘mess with’ your hair as little as possible, applying the baking soda (BS) and apple cider vinegar (ACV) once a week or less. Some people eventually remove the BS and ACV all together, and stick solely to water. Others continue the BS and ACV forever, but decrease the frequency and increase the dilution ratio over time.
You should still ‘water-wash’ your hair whenever you shower (not more than once daily), by running your hair under water and massaging with your fingers. Brush your hair carefully and thoroughly to distribute the natural oils that are essential to healthy hair. Finally, don’t overdo it! A little BS goes a long way (ha!)
But why would you do that???
I’ve written in the past about harmful chemicals in cosmetics, and shampoo is no exception. Common offenders include sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, the detergents/surfactants that have been linked to all sorts of terrible troubles. There are tons of other worrisome additives lurking in your shampoo and conditioner too, variable by brand.
Then of course, there’s the oil industry connection. Yup, shampoo contains petroleum products, in the form of ‘mineral oils’. These byproducts are added to give your hair that extra shine, – by coating it in petroleum! Ick.
And finally, if all that isn’t enough to convince you, how about the cost? It’s just cheap ol’ baking soda and vinegar, and you use a lot less of it too. Can’t beat that!
So why baking soda? What does it do?
Believe it or not, water will remove the vast (vast!) majority of grit and residue found in ‘dirty’ hair. But for those tough times, BS does the rest. BS is oh-so-slightly alkaline, is a natural deodorizer, and gently scours away dirt and product build-up.
Apply the BS (try it in a squirt bottle) to the roots, gently massaging it thoroughly over the scalp. Allow it to sit and then rinse in warm water to cleanse and clarify.
So why vinegar? What does it do?
Conditioner was invented to replace the oils stripped by harsh detergents (that’s shampoo). Without the nasty, drying, stripping soap, there’s no need for extra oils. Vinegar can do it all!
ACV is mildly acidic, with about 3-5% acid content in most store brands. Most importantly, the tincture restores desirable pH. It seals the cuticle while detangling and clarifying hair. Additionally, it promotes circulation in the scalp and reduces flaking or peeling skin. No dandruff!
Apply ACV (try it in a spray bottle) to the shafts and scalp. Distribute evenly and allow to sit. Rinse with cool water to soften hair, reduce frizz, and restore curls.
What about the transition period?
If you use normal shampoo, your hair is accustomed to being stripped of it’s natural oil. When this stops, the hair freaks out for a bit! This can cause an ‘oily period’ where the scalp is overcompensating. Just give yourself a few weeks to re-adjust.
What are the benefits of all this?
A lot! People who no-poo claim:
• volume
• shininess
• bounciness
• softness
• cleaner/clearer scalp
• less breaks/shedding (more elasticity)
• less need for styling products
And that’s all there is to it . . . so what are you waiting for!?
In my continuing quest to rid my life of harsh and harmful chemicals, I’ve been experimenting with another DIY recipe. Traditional cosmetics are so full of nasty toxins, and even the eco-sheik alternatives are not as natural as they may appear. For example, it’s nearly impossible to find a brand of toothpaste – even the seemingly ‘green’ ones – that doesn’t contain sodium lauryl sulfate.
I’m resigned to replacing each of my store-bought products as they run out. You may remember my first foray into kitchen cosmetics, with my homemade deodorant – a resounding success (I’ll never go back!) Just recently I’ve traded my shampoo for ‘no-poo‘, and we’ll see how that all pans out.
So what about the toothpaste?
Just like the deodorant, this recipe centers around baking soda and coconut oil. And of course, it’s crazy cheap and easy to make. It goes like this:
Sayward’s Homemade Toothpaste Recipe
4 tablespoons baking soda
2 tablespoons coconut oil (warmed to liquid state)
3 teaspoons xylitol
15 drops peppermint oil
Mix everything in a small bowl until it forms a uniform paste. Add more peppermint oil 5 drops at a time, tasting as you go, if you like it stronger (I added quite a bit more but I figure this is a good base). Transfer to a small glass jar or storage container with a tight-fitting lid. The toothpaste will keep unrefrigerated for months.
The only thing you may have trouble with is procuring the xylitol. The natural sweetener is excellent for this application, because it actually benefits teeth. Alas, it may be hard to find. It’s available online, but if you want to forgo it you can. Just use a dash of stevia – but just a bit! – that stuff goes a loooong way.
This toothpaste has been working great. Damian and I have been using it for a couple of weeks now, with no complaints. It *did* take a while to adjust to the flavor . . . eek. Sort of hyper-saline and hard on the tongue, but you do get used to it. Consider yourself warned!
And one last note: I’ve come accross a lot of concern regarding the potential for baking soda to damage tooth enamel. Apparently, there is an Abrasive Index for all toothpastes, called the RDA Index, which measures a product’s grittiness. After all, toothpastes are abrasive – that’s how they work! But according to the RDA Index, baking soda is the second least abrasive option, right above plain ol’ water. So no worries!
Last week I wrote an article that explained my love affair with hair dye. We covered natural dyes, box dyes, salon jobs, and vegan hair dye. Finally, I wrote a bit about my current colorant of choice: Manic Panic.
I use Manic Panic because its a ‘non-toxic, non-noxious, vegan vegetable-based semi-permanent product’ . . . but what does that actually mean? I wrote to the company for more information, but alas, they were silent.
So I took matters into my own hands (as I tend to do) and began an investigation. An inquiry into each and every ingredient in my hair dye: what is it?, what does it do?, and is it going to hurt me? Here I present my result, in black and white:
Manic Panic ‘Classic Cream Formula’ hair dye
Ingredients: Synthetic beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth20, Humulus lupulus extract, Anthemis nobilis extract, Acetic Acid, Methylparaben, Propylene glycol
May Also Contain: Orange 4 (CI 15510), Red 33 (CI 17200), Blue 1 (CI 42090), Yellow 10 (CI 47005), Green 5 (CI 61570)
Synthetic Beeswax
- A blend of fatty esters, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and hydrocarbons, with properties similar to natural beeswax.
- Acts as a thickener and emulsifier.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 1 (out of 10)
Cetearyl Alcohol
- Another wax, not really an ‘alcohol’ in the traditional sense.
- Vegetable derived fatty alcohols, like coconut alcohol.
- Acts as an emulsifier, emollient, thickening agent, and moisturizer. Also a ‘carrying agent’ for various ingredients.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 0 (out of 10)
Ceteareth20
- Helps ingredients to dissolve within a solvent that they wouldn’t otherwise dissolve in.
- Not advised for use on ‘damaged skin’.
- May contain traces of 1, 4-dioxane, a nasty no-no, but this is removable with proper purification.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 5 (out of 10)
Humulus lupulus extract
- This is hops extract (yeah, the beer stuff)
- Acts as a strengthener and conditioner in hair products.
- A very understudied additive, with virtually no data.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 0 (out of 10)
Anthemis nobilis extract
- This is chamomile extract (yes, the tea stuff!)
- Used for conditioning properties as well as fragrance.
- May increase skin absorption of other ingredients.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 1 (out of 10)
Acetic Acid
- Essentially this is vinegar, in a concentrated form.
- Classed as ‘Generally Recognized As Safe’ (GRAS) by the FDA.
- Acts to stabilize the pH.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 2 (out of 10)
Methylparaben
- Eek! This one is no good.
- Implicated in a slew of health concerns, including allergies, immunotoxicity, organ toxicity, and skin/lung/eye irritation.
- May have an estrogenic affect.
- Added as a preservative.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 8 (out of 10)
Propylene Glycol
- Considered safe in concentrations up to 50%.
- However, it’s implicated in a slew of health concerns, including carcinogenic properties, allergies, immunotoxicity, organ toxicity, skin/lung/eye irritation, and bioaccumulation.
- Added to absorb water and maintain moisture.
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 7 (out of 10)
May Also Contain . . .
Orange 4 (CI 15510)
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 4 (out of 10)
Red 33 (CI 17200)
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 3 (out of 10)
Blue 1 (CI 42090)
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 0 (out of 10)
Yellow 10 (CI 47005)
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 2 (out of 10)
Green 5 (CI 61570)
- Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database Page
- Skin Deep Rating: 1 (out of 10)
And that’s that, the ingredients profile. If you want see how they all work together, here is the Skin Deep Database page for a sample color. I chose my most recent inspiration, Infrared. As a whole the product receives a Safety Rating of 5.
Whew! That was a lot of work. I sorta wish the company had just written back to me, but oh well. Now you have the information, plain and simple. And you can make your own, informed, choice.
