I have this friend name Lise.

Lise is easily one of the most interesting women I’ve ever known. Interesting is an understatement, but even more than that, Lise sparks inspiration in a very lonely part of me that’s just so rarely sparked. We first met back in the early 2000s, like 2002? I think? She was managing the coffee shop where I worked, and she was also the baker, and I was an opener, which meant we would have these strange few hours together in the very earliest morning, before dawn, smack dab in the middle of a dark and deserted downtown, and that sort of eerie setting makes for some really cool conversation.

Lise baked confections and named them for dead writers. “If Bukowski Were A Cupcake!“, the sign would read. She once told the entire story of my first true love, which she was watching unfold in real time, through an elaborate series of angel food cakes. Over the course of months and months. Glorious start to grisly, miserable finish – all captured in cake (those Ooh-La-La Cakes were legendary, man I should tell that story sometime).

Anyway, why is Lise so inspiring? Because, well, she is basically Bohemia incarnate. She is my proof that you don’t have to “grow out of it”, or at least that you don’t have to grow into that place that almost everyone seems to grow into. That you don’t have to become muted. Because Lise is so fiercely authentic, so living-breathing-being her creative self, all the time, and that is a rare, rare thing indeed.

So Lise wears many artistic hats, and one of them is as seamstress. Costume designer for local theaters, and dressmaker for any occasion, Lise is amazing behind the spinning wheel of a sewing machine. And a few years back, she was working on a series of “art dresses” to show in a local gallery.

Right around that time, Lady Gaga wore a meat dress to the VMAs.

Lise was appalled and more than that, driven to action. And thus was the birth of this dress – officially titled “Shame on Lady Gaga the Anti-Meat Dress“. In Lise’s own words:

For me the reason for my “Shame on Lady Gaga the Anti-Meat Dress” comes down to this: until we acknowledge that we have caused and are causing every moment tremendous and undeniable pain and suffering to millions of animals, we will never be free of worry, we will never be happy, we will never sleep in peace. The very thing that enables us to turn away from our cruelty and continue, the very attitude that allows us to look away and justify our actions, the very ability we have to blindly pursue our own lusts over other animals lives-allows us to live unkindly as people, unfairly as citizens, and inhumanely as fellow passengers. And this dress is my VERY SMALL, tragically insignificant attempt to be a STRONG AND LOUD voice in this world moving too fast for its own good and too selfishly for its own survival.

But did you notice the material it’s made out of? Silk.

This story has many layers. Because Lise poured her heart and soul into an animal rights dress, and she constructed this incredible piece of art out of silk. And when she was done she offered the dress to PETA, to auction or keep or do with as they wished. And they . . .

. . . said no thanks. Because the dress, you see, is not vegan.

What I love about this story is that in the end, Lise learned something new too. She learned about silk production and when I had coffee with her last week, I asked her, “So do you still use silk in your sewing?”

She cocked her head as she paused and thought, and then with a sort of surprised half-smile she said, “You know? No, I haven’t bought silk since then.”




I was so honored to be able to wear this incredible piece of art. And I’m happy to announce that Shame on Lady Gaga the Anti-Meat Dress is currently for sale, with ALL proceeds going to animal rights charities.

Bidding starts at $300, please email me at info AT bonzaiaphrodite DOT com to make an offer.

Thanks so much to the amazing Lise, for allowing me to wear your dress and share your story. Read Lise’s blog here.

And special thanks to Clovis IV for the incredible photos!





♥

Last week I posted a tutorial for baby knee pads, but what about us big kids?! A couple of readers requested my method for homemade leg and arm warmers, and I’m more than happy to oblige.

Here’s the thing: It’s so easy! To make leg warmers, you start with an old sweater (thrift store!), like this:



And then you cut off the sleeves, like this:



Aaaand, that’s it! As you can see in the top picture, the way you wear them will depend on the original sweater. You can even use a jacket, like I did with the camo, but you’ll need to use safety pins to keep them up (pin them tight over the top of your calf). The ones I made for this tutorial ended up very long – ooh la la!

~ ~ ~

Hand warmers are just as easy! Start with a pair of socks. For longies, cut off just the toes and then snip a *small* hole in the heal.



And it looks like this:



For shorties, snip below the heel instead, like this:



Then it’s just a matter of making a thumb hole in the right spot (use your hand as a guide). These are the type I tend to wear all winter:



If you want to get really fancy, you can take a pair of longies and turn them into actual gloves. Just slit down and sew up a tube for each finger. I did this with the pair I made for Damian!




Sometimes, it really just is that simple. Hope you enjoy!

Breastfeeding while touring a farm, ’cause that’s just how I roll. What’s that got to do with fashion? Well . . . a lot!

Truth: I adore fashion. And though I don’t really shop a whole lot, I do replenish my cool-weather clothes each fall, and my warm-weather clothes in the spring. In between excursions I’ll pore over blogs and editorials. I’ll amass great collections of inspiration, selecting the styles that speak to me aesthetically. Then I’ll hit the thrift with these in mind, hunting for treasures to take my fashion forward into the next season. And then . . .

And then, these wonderful pieces will slowly wilt in the deep dark depths of my dresser. Invariably, I’ll have chosen a look that doesn’t flatter my body type, or that isn’t physically comfortable, or that, most importantly, just doesn’t lend itself to my lifestyle. I’ll have a closet full of great clothes, yet I’ll hide in the comfort of hoodies all winter.

No more, I say! This year I’m determined. This year I have a plan. A thoughtful, practical approach: “What clothes will work for me?” Highly complex scientific analysis involving algorithms and lots of calculus revealed three intrinsic factors that affect my fashion choices this fall:

1. My post-baby body! Woah, time to re-examine everything I knew about dressing myself. Goodbye, ribcage-to-thigh-with-nary-a-curve slim hips! Hello, nipped waist and a proud badonk! w00t! Also, um, 32E. Seriously.
2. My post-baby schedule! I’m over-worked, under-slept, and usually sporting spit-up. I need clothes that stand strong on their own, ’cause I just don’t have the time to coordinate.
3. Breastfeeding! More than anything else, my outfits are founded on access access access. Especially once it get’s really cold! No lifting up or pulling down; I need to get in there with as little skin exposure as possible.

Shooting Outfit Photos With Munchkin – 1) Yeah, gettin’ my pose on. Feelin’ fly . . . 2) Oh shit! Don’t touch that! 3) Here, come hang out with Mommy. [trouser jeans are secondhand & asymmetrical reconstructed top by a local designer]

The above three criteria work in conjunction to make dressing myself damn near impossible. Ha! I’m kidding of course, but I’m willing to bet that each of you has some similar issue – an idiosyncrasy that makes it difficult to just. get. dressed. Maybe it’s an atypical body type. Or perhaps you can’t stand the feel of most fabrics. Maybe your job requires you to wear unrestrictive clothing. Whatever it is, if you can identify it like I’ve done here, then you can work out how to work around it. For me that means:

1. Finding the styles that suit my new body – which are pretty much the opposite of those that worked with my old body!
2. Finding pieces that are: a) awesome all on their own (not basics!), b) comfy enough that I’ll actually want to wear them while toting around a toddler, and c) easily cleaned.
3. Breastfeeding friendly means a zip front or a button front or super stretchy. No solid fronts or high necklines means I can’t wear most of my old winter wardrobe. Oh darn. Guess I’ll need to do some more shopping . . .

Two Transitional Looks – At left, I love love love this funky cut aqua creation. Living in it already! (and look at it, it’s just *made* for breastfeeding!). At right, I never liked navy + black until very recently. I think the red makes all the difference! [everything secondhand]

And For When It Really Cools Down – At left, this ‘motorcycle’ jacket is hoodie material. No leather here! And the skirt has pockets, yes! At right, I’m such a child of the grunge 90s, I will forever love flannel. So, what’s the consensus on leggings-as-pants? [everything secondhand except scarf, which is Damian's]

I’ve had so much fun plotting and planning my Super-Styley Mommy Ensembles. Now it just needs to get cold enough so I can wear them . . . naw, I can wait!

What about you, my dears? What are your wardrobe hang-ups? How will you combat them this season?

That is, unless you know you look good!

Riding in style may be just the motivation you need. However, looking ‘good’ means something different to everyone. To me it meant painting my helmet matte black and fitting it with kitty ears. To you, it may mean . . . adding a shiny red racing stripe! . . . or attaching a silver tiara! . . . or a hot pink leopard print paint job! I think I’ll bedazzle my next helmet with glitter and rhinestones, oh yes.

Whatever your pleasure, you have to wear a helmet for safety’s sake, so it might as well be fun or fabulous. Why not!? I recently saw a gentleman with a helmet painted up like a watermelon. So get creative – and have fun with it!

1 * 2 * 3 * 4

If DIY isn’t your thing, there’s plenty of pre-made creations out there (as evidenced above). So check around the interwebs or scout your local bike shop for inspiration.

But most importantly, be safe guys!

So let’s dive right in, shall we?


~ Boxers ~

I wrote about Patagonia last week, but let’s recap. This southern California-based retailer is at the forefront of sustainability in textiles. Their mission statement reads: “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, and use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” Their position on corporate social responsibility can be found here.

• Tighty-whiteys and boxer briefs, made primarily from recycled polyester.
• Regular baggy boxers, again from recycled polyester.

The progressive Cottonfield USA is an organic company, using cotton grown in America, milled in America, and made in America. All their dyes are also free of heavy metals. Their commitment to organic products is laid out on their website.

• They have two styles of briefs, the classic and the sport.
• They offer one style of boxer briefs.
• And these are their boxers, though honestly they don’t look very comfortable (or stylish).

I absolutely love Faeries Dance for their affordable options. They’re all sweatshop-free, made with environmentally sensitive fabrics and low-impact dyes. You can read about their policies on their website.

• Of course, they have tons of underwear options!

Rawganique is a ‘human scale family business’ that specializes in organic hemp and other natural fibers. Their products are all sweatshop free, and made in the US, Canada, Europe, and Thailand. You can read a lengthy explanation of their business plan on their about page.

• They have quite a variety of offerings, from briefs to boxers to boxer briefs.

And again . . . *sigh* . . . if worse comes to worst you can always get organic cotton briefs from American Apparel. Also available in a 3-pack. (but read about why I don’t like to support them, here, in italics)


~Socks~

My absolute number one favorite online sock source is the amazing, the incomparable, Sock Dreams. Not all of them are organic, or sweat free, or even vegan, but there are plenty of options that are. And all of the Sock Dreams label are made right here in Oregon. Here are some of my favorite choices:

• Here’s their eco-friendly page, with TONS of styles.
• Some simple organics, nothing fancy.
• There’s lots and lots more, and they’re really well-priced, so check ‘em out!

Patagonia, pricey as they may be, has a small but significant selection.

• The lightweight everyday version, organic cotton and nylon.
• The lightweight ski liner socks are mostly recycled polyester.
• The lightweight hiking crew liner is the same.

Good old Cottonfield USA has such a comprehensive collection of apparel.

• They only offer one option, but it’s pretty reasonably priced.

Faeries Dance comes through again!

• Check out their entire selection with tons of cheap choices to choose from!

No Sweat Apparel was one of the first socially conscious companies I discovered, way back in the day (I asked for an awesome pair of red high top ‘chucks’ for Chanukah). They’re a great company that have been doing good for a long long time, and they seem to be hurting in this economic climate. So why not support them?!

• The women’s cotton crew socks are made in the US and vegan. Unfortunately the men’s classic is a wool blend. *sad trombone*

And that about wraps it up, my dears. Please do continue to share your own ideas and discoveries. I’m always looking for more alternatives!

That is, until the elastic wears out in all your panties. Or your last good bra just melted in the dryer. Or you’ve blown out the toes in your entire collection of stripey long socks. What about these garments – the more personal underthings? How do we remain true to our values without having to buy such skintimate skivvies . . . secondhand? (eek!) Well, like this:


~ Panties ~

Patagonia is a southern California industry leader, pushing the limits of sustainable clothing for the past 2 decades. Their mission statement reads: “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, and use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” They’ve also written a comprehensive essay on corporate social responsibility.

• They may be a bit pricey, but these organic cotton choners are pretty damn cute, from a pretty damn cool company.
• Um hello!? Unders made out of old plastic bottles! Here & here & here. WOW!

Blue Canoe is another California-based company, with an entirely organic line. All their clothing is manufactured in San Francisco, California. You can read all about them here.

• Organic cotton string bikini
• Organic cotton + spandex panty
• Organic cotton + spandex boy shorts

Cottonfield USA uses only 100% certified organic cotton, grown in America, milled in America, and made in America. All their dyes are also free of heavy metals. You can read all about their commitment to organic on their website.

• Here’s their entire panty page, w00t!

Faeries Dance is a sweet little online company featuring diverse pieces from a variety of vendors. They have great options and lots of cute cuts. All are made sweatshop-free, with environmentally sensitive fabrics and low-impact dyes. Read about it on their ‘About’ page.

• The panty page! Lotsa choices, cheap cheap prices!

And . . . *sigh* . . . if worse comes to worst you can always get organic cotton underwear from American Apparel. (read about why I don’t like to support them, here, in italics)


~Bras~

Bras are so hard to find! You can get organic, but it’s not sweat-free. Or you can get vegan, but it’s not green. You can definitely find lots of yoga wear/sports bras, but anything underwired or purty is like ‘Where’s Waldo?’ on the internets. But here’s what I came up with.

Patagonia, as noted above, is always a good bet for quality and conscience.

• Here’s the organic cotton selection.
• Here’s the rest of them – spandex, nylon, and mostly recycled (and recyclable) polyester.

Blue Canoe, discussed above, has a pretty disappointing selection of bras. But if you’re looking for something sporty you may want to check them out.

• Here’s their catalogue page.

Faeries Dance, bless their hearts, have tons of options to choose from. Lace, push-up, and prints included. I love these guys!

• Get the whole list and see for yourself. It’s good stuff!

Enamore is the perfect choice for those across the pond. Sexy, sultry, specializing in sustainable and vintage fabrics. A bit on the pricier side, but also the nicest ‘eco’ lingerie I’ve seen!

• The Bedrock range. (raWr!)
• The Bamboo Bralette is adorable.
• This chic Underwire Bra is utter sexy sophistication.

So there you go, my ever-conscientious, fabulous fashionistas. Now you’ll be just as fly on the underside, as you are on the outside (and on the inside!). But it’s not quite over yet. We mustn’t neglect that essential other half . . . our feet! Nah, just kidding, I mean boys of course! And yeah, socks too.

Tune in next week for part II, on sustainable socks and boxers!

I don’t follow trends and I don’t buy magazines, but I do adore the self expression of personal fashion. And since I’m not concerned with being ‘current’ and since I choose not to shop at new clothing stores, I’m always in the process of reworking and redefining my own sense of style.

I pull my inspiration from everywhere, wherever inspiration strikes. I’m always collecting images and eventually, when I feel an aesthetic shift coming on, I delve into my collection. Revisiting these images is always interesting – some of them make no sense to me anymore, while others just sing out loud.

The following pictures will fuel my creative fires this fall and winter. I hope you’ll find a few of them as inspiring as I have!

Helena Bonham Carter is amaaaazing.

Helena with Nell.

Sassy magazine spread from the early 90s.

So what about you my dears? What’s inspiring you this season? (PS – I’d love to credit these images if I could. If anyone knows any sources, please pass them along!)

Marc Jacobs 2009, Luella 2009, Rodarte 2009

I don’t ever follow trends, but I do love to draw from cutting edge fashion for fresh ideas to add into my own aesthetic. And these transitional seasons can be the most inspiring times!  Fashion is the manifestation of so many things; it’s about projecting out from your insides, it’s about reflecting back what surrounds you, and it’s all about telling your story.  And the spring story sings about shedding the weight of winter and wiggling into an outfit that allows you shine like a lovely daffodil! 

But if we’re all supposed to be bursting with shine, how come the entire fashion blogosphere is so uninspired, seemingly stalled in a giant, collective yawn?  Everyone, including myself and most likely including you too, is completely unimpressed with the vast majority of modern fashion.  We all seem to be waiting for something to knock our stripey socks off, and in the meantime we’re hiding in leggings and tunic tops, twiddling out thumbs.  Something’s gotta give. 

So, what do you do when new style stagnates and inspiration is nowhere to be found?  Well, I’ll tell you what I do.  I return to my roots! 

Everyone’s personal sense of style has a distinct origin. Maybe you began emulating your mother as a little girl, and now you only feel like a woman when wearing pearls. Or maybe little 9-year-old-you fell in love with a girl who said you looked nice in your sailor pants, causing navy and white to permeate your entire wardrobe ever after. Or maybe, like me, you didn’t even discover fashion until later in the game, when you got hit hard and fast with a subculture explosion of music, art and clothing that imprinted your ego so deeply it scarred. 

MmmMm yes, the delicious grunge 90s. The ripped jeans and old flannels, ‘clashing’ patterns and torn tights, vintage dresses with combat boots, ad oh oh oh, the music that carried it all. 

These are the clothes that shrouded me through my formative years, and visiting them again allows me to tap into some of that incredible energy I experienced as a young teen.  Disregarding the hormones, the mania, the self-doubt and the misdirected rebellion, those were some of the most creative, most magical, and most present years of my life. Wearing clothes reminiscent of then, I can’t help but feel comfortable, carefree, and absolutely centered.  And so I’ll borrow from the past right now, when I need a little bit of that teenaged enthusiasm. 

Whether you’re an 80’s power suit queen, a pretty prairie belle, an über-mod urbanite, or just a scrappy grunger like me, wearing clothes that rejuvenate you is an essential part of keeping you feeling beautiful and confident.  So if you know the root-style that’s going to make you feel great, dig into it and revel, no matter what the current trends dictate.  Everything old is new again, so one of these days you may just find yourself on the cutting edge.  Until then, at least you won’t be yawning for inspiration at every passing fad.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I need to go shine up my combat boots.

Everyone has their ubiquitous basics, like plain solid tees, nice neutral slacks, and the ‘little black dress’.  But these are just clothes, and what you need to target now are garments.  A garment that dresses down with sandals and a sunhat on a warm spring day, and dresses up with a chic watch and a smart vest for a professional rendezvous, and also layers well with knits to keep you warm in winter.  These targets are not just casual clothes.  Because really, when you put on clothes, you’re just wearing clothing.  But when you put on a garment, you’re on your way to an outfit, and that’s the difference between getting dressed, and dressing up!

For a low-volume / high-impact wardrobe, you’ll need your boring basics, your incredible accessories, and a small significant stash of these magical, morph-able garments.  So, what lends an item this ultimate flexibility?  The most important criterion is this: how do you feel when you wear it?  Believe me, the blouse may match everything in your closet, but if it makes you ‘feel fat’, it’s never coming off the hanger.  Conversely, it doesn’t matter if it’s a chartreuse crinoline – if it’s comfy and it makes you feel like a million bucks, you’ll rework your whole wardrobe just to wear it every day.  Your first priority should always be your own comfort (that’s physical *and* emotional, my dear).

So secondarily, you’re aiming for a quasi-statement piece that will focus an outfit.  It can’t be so neutral that it’s boring, but also not so wild as to pigeonhole it.  Your standard basics will fill in as needed to cover your skin, and your standout accessories will style the overall look.  Your glorious garment, however, holds it all together and elevates it into an aesthetic masterpiece.

This garment may be the perfect blazer, one that fits as though tailored by a lover.  The right blazer can plop over a men’s undershirt and baggy denims for a perfectly disheveled Sunday brunch.  That same blazer could equally as effectively – and stylishly – ward off the chill brought on by the strapless sweetheart neckline of your Saturday night cocktail number.  Now that’s perfect versatility.

And of course, there is the quintessential chameleon: a pair of painted-on skinnies.  Skinny jeans are more adaptable than wide-legs because you can casually pair them with slip-ons and a tank top for daytime, but you also can wear them under knee-boots and a chunky sweater come nightfall.  If you must pack light for a last minute trip, skinnies are your very best friend.

Other dynamic apparel may include a funky fun vest, one-of-a-kind vintage boots, and of course, the perfect dress.  Which leads me to my visual aide – an example out of my own closet – my cotton light grey empire waist spaghetti strap tunic dress.  Whew!

I got this baby for 6 or 7 dollars last spring, and I swear I’ve gotten more wear out of it than anything else I’ve ever owned.  Not only is it perfectly suited to my body type (it makes my boobs look great), and not only does it stand up solo *or* amongst multiple layers, AND not only is it the perfect shade of match-anything grey – but because it’s comfy and lovely and wearing it makes me feel damn awesome, so I do!   This is versatility:

I love this dress so much I wore it, and it alone, while primping for my wedding!

It looks awesome paired with bright pops, shown here under blue and over red.

Simple in summer – over a black tank top and flip-flops, Honeymooning in Mexico.

All the way to the dead of winter, for President Obama’s inauguration this January.

I can’t even begin to show the infinite ways I’ve worn and worked this one treasured dress.  But I think you get the idea, no?  Now be off, you fabulous beauties, and find those golden garments!

Cruelty-Free Clothing
Being veg*n is not simply a diet choice – it is a lifestyle. It is a way of life led without contributing to the suffering of living things.  As a veg*n, I won’t support industries centered around taking from animals.  I won’t purchase leather (suede, shearling, and skin), fur, wool (mohair, pashmina, cashmere, and angora included), or silk.  I will not buy these products new, and I will not buy them secondhand either, because I think I can look quite fabulous without them.  For the sake of wastefulness and financial woe, I’ll continue to wear my ‘pre-gan’ leather and wool until it wears out.  These will have been the last animal products I ever bought.

Here are some excellent online vegan retailers:

Alternative Outfitters

Herbivore Clothing

Moo Shoes

PETA Store

 
Sweatshop-Free Clothing
The vast majority of textiles produced today are made using sweatshop or near sweatshop labor in the third world.  It is close to impossible to buy new clothing without supporting this deplorable practice of pillage and exploitation.  For this reason, I buy almost exclusively secondhand – which I just adore.  Secondhand pieces are cheaper and more interesting, and have the added bonus of coming without a guilty conscience.  The exclusion I make here is for undergarments, which I do not advocate buying used.  Look out for an article on Bonzai-approved bras and panties, coming soon. 

American-Made and Union-Made Clothing
Luckily, there are still some companies that manufacture their goods in America.  When you find them, support them!   Just be careful about putting your faith in a ‘made in the USA’ tag, and always do your own research before you buy.  The Internet is a great place for researching national corporations.  Look for websites that are open about their manufacturing practices and their worker compensation/unionization.  American-made products are a selling point, so if the company’s claims are legit, they’ll want to advertise them. 

In the same vein, another great option is to buy from a local artisan or craftsman.  Purchase clothing from a burgeoning dressmaker, commission jewelry from a master goldsmith, or buy your sweaters, scarves and blankets from a neighborhood weaver.  Most cities hold craft fairs and other events where local talent can hock their wares.  These are great opportunities to compile a closet full of unique and lasting garments.  Etsy, Ebay, Craigslist, and the rest of the internets are also excellent resources for finding ethical items.  Your options here are endless, although I do encourage you to poke around your own town.  Supporting local businesses and cutting down on energy-expensive shipping are two very easy steps that can make a quite an impact. 

As an aside, it seems important to mention everyone’s favorite ‘made in America’ brand, American Apparel.  AA has built an empire offering comfortable cotton basics in trendy cuts, paired with a feel-good message of workers rights.  But, this has come hand in hand with a demeaning and misogynistic advertising campaign, which seems to excite and interest as many customers as it repels.  For me, the issue is not about fictional sexploitation advertising, but about the real-life actions of AA founder Dov Charney.  Charney has been accused of exposing his junk to reporters, of walking around the office in skimpy underwear, and has been involved in not 1, not 2, not 3 or 4 but FIVE sexual harassment lawsuits.  Nobody knows the entire story, but as a feminist and an activist, I cannot in good conscience support this company.  So I don’t directly buy American Apparel products.  However, whereas ‘cruelty clothing’ like leather and wool are strictly off-limits, I do not have a problem buying AA secondhand.  A plain white cotton tee is a plain white cotton tee, as long as my money isn’t going to support a company with questionable conduct.

For me, being an Ethical Sartorialist is all about putting the control back into my hands.  I know that I have this incredibly powerful voice, and I am determined to use it – so I speak with my dollar!   This voice hollers when I don’t buy something (boycott), but it also shouts when I DO buy something (pro-cot!).  We create a demand for cruelty-free and morally-made goods by spending our cold hard cash.  Then, love it or hate it, our capitalist system will require bigger business to switch gears and supply what we desire.  We can use this system to change the system.  We can take back the power. 

And, we can look really friggin’ cute while we do it.